Thursday, October 18, 2012

Cat Ba Island

After a tiring trip here from Hanoi yesterday I thoroughly enjoyed my first full day on Cat Ba Island. I arrived late last night and after finding the office of the climbing tour company I booked a hotel room through them and met some climbers who I climbed with today. The rock here is limestone sport climbing (which is what I'm used to in Austin), and is really fun long routes. After warming up I flashed a 12a then onsighted another easy 12. Apparantely I can still sport climb after so much bouldering haha. It feels a little wierd climbing long roped climbs after so much unroped bouldering.

I thought Hanoi was cheap but Cat Ba is half price again. For less money then a 6 bed hostel room in Hanoi I have a room to myself here. A delicious cooked dinner that I could barely finish cost me the equivalent of 4 dollars. I originally planned for four days in Hanoi after leaving the island but I think I may cut that down to two and spend the extra days climbing here.

So while the roped climbing here is great I really came for the deep water soloing. Deeping as they call it here is climbing without a rope over the ocean so that if you fall you splash safely into the water. At the moment the tides aren't great so it's only possible to do half days of deeping. But later in the week when it's possible to do full days (for the same price as the half days right now) I'll do a lot of climbing in the bay over ocean, which I soooo look forward to.

I left my iPhone charger in Melbourne but I just picked up another one up so I should be able to blog pretty regularly over the next week. Free WiFi is so easy to find, you just walk down the waterfront in front of the hotels and use theirs, and now I don't have to worry about phone battery. Expect updates on what I've climbed :)!

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Hanoi, Vietnam

Arrived in Hanoi this afternoon.  Bit of a stressful trip from the airport.  The cab driver attempted to rip me off but luckily I had looked up what the trip should cost from the airport before hand.  He was a little surprised when I bothered doing the simple arithmetic to work out how much it should cost based on the average speed and cost per kilometer too.  Moral of the story, agree on a price before the trip starts, as I was told but forgot.  Still ended up overpaying but barely.  Not a good start but once I got into the hostel I'm staying at my day improved significantly.  Everyone is friendly and everything is so cheap, especially compared to Australia where a pint of beer costs 10 dollars :|.

The weather forecast isn't great for the next week but there's days of sunshine in between the rain so I'm still gonna travel up to Ha Long Bay to climb.  Not sure how much internet I'll have there so this may be the last post for a week.

Thanks for reading!

Monday, October 15, 2012

Singapore

I'm sitting in Singapore Changi Airport right now. I got here just before 6 this morning and 5 hours later there's still another hour before my plane departs. Unfortunately my connection counted as second booking so I had to go through Singaporean immigration, and then I couldn't re-enter the departure area until 2 hours before my flight. So I spent 4 hours napping in front of the check in desks. I took a step outside and the oppressive humidity reminded me of Houston. But now only 4 hours and I'll be in Hanoi. Then tomorrow I take a series of buses and a ferry to Ha Long Bay for another week of climbing :). 

I had an awesome time in Perth with Kat and Alex, the siblings I stayed with. It was great to relax and not to have to worry about anything after 3 weeks of camping and rationing food from grocery trips haha. I also hung out with the Kelly's, some old British family friends from Houston. They were kind enough to invite me for dinner and drive me to the airport on my last night. 

I also caught up with the news as I had free time and Internet. Interesting to see how much Romney caught up after the first debate, though I think most pollers still give Obama an advantage in the electoral college though; 62 to 38 or roundabouts were the odds I read. We'll see what happens after the second debate though. 

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Final Weekend in the Grampians

Another update from Horsham Public Library.  I just ate possibly the best roast chicken sandwich and sausage rolls I have ever had, though the fact I've been living off dehydrated rice and pasta meals probably helps haha.

The image above is me climbing the highball V4 called Volume 1000 I mentioned in my previous post.  The highest wall you can see in the background is Taipan Wall, which has been described as the "mythical life blood of Australian climbing" by Julian Saunders.  Readers of Rock and Ice magazine in the US will recognize Dr. Saunders from the "Ask Dr. J" columns.  I've learnt on this trip he was actually an Australian professional climber who helped develop the Grampians in it's early days as a climbing destination.

So today I'm just resting and recovering for a final weekend of climbing here.  I climbed Rave Heart 3 days ago, which is a V8 in the famous Hollow Mountain Cave.  The cave is a ridiculously improbable feature near the top of a mountain.  It stretches for around 60 to 70 feet and is probably more than 30 feet wide at its widest, but it never rises more than 6 feet off the ground.  The crazy part is there are climbable features throughout the cave from one end to the other, and every individual portion is very difficult.  So much so that climbing the whole cave was for a long time the hardest boulder problem in the world, called The Wheel of Life at a grade of V16.  If there was even one 4 or 6 foot section that was blank The Wheel of Life would be unclimbable.  Rave Heart is one of the easiest climbs in the cave, but I was still psyched because it is my hardest climb of the trip so far, and it's just super fun movements.  I also slipped off the finishing hold on Cave Man which is a V9 in the cave and the middle section of The Wheel of Life.

I head back to Melbourne on either Monday or Tuesday depending on whether I decide to get a ride back with some climbers driving on Monday or stay an extra day but be stuck with public transport on Tuesday.  I'm leaning towards the car journey (it's shorter) but if I have unfinished climbs to do I might have to stay to climb them.  On Wednesday I fly to Perth for just under a week there before flying to Vietnam and Climbing in Ha Long Bay :).

For those who are interested there are more pictures from the Grampians on my facebook page.