Wednesday, December 31, 2014
Monday, December 1, 2014
2014: the Year this Blog Died
It's December 1st and I'm writing the second blog post of 2014. An injury last winter that didn't heal up completely until this fall, a dearth of outdoor climbing, and my interest in other things all got in the way of climbing in 2014. I went on trips but never felt very strong, and never felt the desire to write about climbing on this blog.
However, enjoying a great Thanksgiving Bishop trip with Cal Climbing and sending my first double digit boulder problem since my gap year while we were there (yes, it's been over 18 months) has rejuvenated my psych. It's a little early for New Year's resolutions but I'm gonna go out on a limb and say I'll keep this blog up over winter and spring through the rest of 2015. In 2014 this blog died, but 2015 will mark its resurrection!
Now, less about blogging and more about climbing. I had tried Beefcake V10 on two previous trips, but despite doing all the moves in a few attempts the send eluded me until the day before Thanksgiving. You start matched on underclings at the bottom of a large boulder suspended a few feet off the ground in the Ice Caves area. A lack of sunlight keeps the rock cool but also means you need headlamps or flashlights to see the problem. You climb out through varied holds, going from a two finger pocket to a crimp-undercling combo, then finally to a sloper and two crux bump moves to a jug. I fell past the crux on the final section twice, but on my fifth attempt of the day I sent the problem! It was day one of Thanksgiving in Bishop and I had already sent my project, leaving me ecstatic and ready to do whatever for the rest of the trip.
But, since we were hanging out in the Ice Caves a little longer I started working Beefy Gecko, a V11 that climbs most of Beefcake before turning right after the jug and climbing a second difficult and physical crux. I tried the moves but was far too tired to stick the crux that day. Two days later my friend Ana, who is an absolute crusher, wanted to go back and try Beefcake some more. She had made huge progress on the day I sent, and was coming tantalizingly close to finishing the problem. I was meant to be taking a rest day but we all know how hard that is, and after being somewhat unsure of how strong I was feeling I hopped on the final sequence of Beefy Gecko and did it smoothly first try.
I was psyched, to say the least. Then I got to watch Ana send Beefcake, her first V10 (congrats!), and I was even more motivated. On all three of my attempts from the start I climbed to the final crux, and on my second attempt felt so close to sending before slipping off. Ultimately I left empty handed, but Beefy Gecko would have been the icing on the cake anyway and I was happy to have shown myself I can climb V11 again by coming so close 3rd day on.
That evening a ridiculous number of us piled into one of Bishop's hot springs, which are literally as hot as bathwater (the difference being that the water is opaque even before a lot of dirty climbers clamber in). As with every other evening alcohol was involved, and the session slowly degenerated into a shoulder massage circle as people left. Yes, climbers are weird, and yes, they really like shoulder massages. That day sums up my trip though. Going out, trying hard with friends, then relaxing in the desert as only a group of people who have sweat, climbed, and mostly failed together can!
However, enjoying a great Thanksgiving Bishop trip with Cal Climbing and sending my first double digit boulder problem since my gap year while we were there (yes, it's been over 18 months) has rejuvenated my psych. It's a little early for New Year's resolutions but I'm gonna go out on a limb and say I'll keep this blog up over winter and spring through the rest of 2015. In 2014 this blog died, but 2015 will mark its resurrection!
Now, less about blogging and more about climbing. I had tried Beefcake V10 on two previous trips, but despite doing all the moves in a few attempts the send eluded me until the day before Thanksgiving. You start matched on underclings at the bottom of a large boulder suspended a few feet off the ground in the Ice Caves area. A lack of sunlight keeps the rock cool but also means you need headlamps or flashlights to see the problem. You climb out through varied holds, going from a two finger pocket to a crimp-undercling combo, then finally to a sloper and two crux bump moves to a jug. I fell past the crux on the final section twice, but on my fifth attempt of the day I sent the problem! It was day one of Thanksgiving in Bishop and I had already sent my project, leaving me ecstatic and ready to do whatever for the rest of the trip.
But, since we were hanging out in the Ice Caves a little longer I started working Beefy Gecko, a V11 that climbs most of Beefcake before turning right after the jug and climbing a second difficult and physical crux. I tried the moves but was far too tired to stick the crux that day. Two days later my friend Ana, who is an absolute crusher, wanted to go back and try Beefcake some more. She had made huge progress on the day I sent, and was coming tantalizingly close to finishing the problem. I was meant to be taking a rest day but we all know how hard that is, and after being somewhat unsure of how strong I was feeling I hopped on the final sequence of Beefy Gecko and did it smoothly first try.
Ana sticking the sloper move
I was psyched, to say the least. Then I got to watch Ana send Beefcake, her first V10 (congrats!), and I was even more motivated. On all three of my attempts from the start I climbed to the final crux, and on my second attempt felt so close to sending before slipping off. Ultimately I left empty handed, but Beefy Gecko would have been the icing on the cake anyway and I was happy to have shown myself I can climb V11 again by coming so close 3rd day on.
That evening a ridiculous number of us piled into one of Bishop's hot springs, which are literally as hot as bathwater (the difference being that the water is opaque even before a lot of dirty climbers clamber in). As with every other evening alcohol was involved, and the session slowly degenerated into a shoulder massage circle as people left. Yes, climbers are weird, and yes, they really like shoulder massages. That day sums up my trip though. Going out, trying hard with friends, then relaxing in the desert as only a group of people who have sweat, climbed, and mostly failed together can!
Sachi Amma sending Realization
It's awesome how much attention Realization still gets over a decade after its first ascent. The thing looks so hard! This great video of Sachi Amma sending it really shows off the climbing. Simple shots and simple edits often make for the best climbing videos.
Before the climbing starts Sachi shares his thought on climbing and visiting new areas. "I just feel good when you go to new area, slowly you feel that that is your place." Home is a weird concept in a world where everyone seems to be moving, and visiting a climbing area, learning the nuances of the rock and surroundings, and projecting something is certainly one way to find one's place.
Nice send Sachi!
Monday, December 2, 2013
Patagonia saves me from Black Friday
I've been meaning to update this blog for a while, now that I've stopped traveling and am settled in at Berkeley. I thought I'd write a trip report from some weekend excursion to Yosemite or Bishop, but between arriving here and getting injured six weeks ago I only made it outside once this semester. The idea of posting here kept getting pushed back, especially as I've been flirting with the idea of starting an economics blog. But, thanks to Patagonia I have something to write about.
Ironically, one of my most vivid memories from India is walking into a Mumbai Starbucks on December 16th and hearing Christmas carols. I was transported to the West: suddenly realizing it was Christmas time. I had been so focused on the experiences of India and immediateness of friendships and life there that I hadn't thought about the biggest celebration of the year. I sat down with my latte beaming, looking forward to flying to London the next day and spending Christmas with family and friends.
Of course, you can't forget about Christmas in the States. Commercials started weeks ago, and stores were putting displays up as soon as Halloween ended (mind you it's not much better in the UK). Now that Black Friday has passed the season is in full swing, and with it the whoring of what was once a pagan celebration into an excuse for gluttony and greed, decidedly un-Christian values.
Sitting in that Starbucks, the first in India, I missed the Christmas season. Now, living it again, I'm not so sure. It's not that I'm not looking forward to the day; after a too-brief visit to Houston this weekend I'm excited to spend quality time with my loving family. It's just that the defining parts of our lives are experiences, relationships, and the stories that those combine to create, not the gifts we receive or the luxury we buy. In a country where despite being the richest in the world we only just managed to get everyone healthcare (and even now its patchy); where since the Great Recession the top 1% have captured 95% of income gains despite only having less than half of the losses during the fall; where we are needlessly squandering the potentials of millions because of an inadequate education system and ridiculous tuition fees, we are failing to give everyone the opportunity to live these defining moments and enjoy those special relationships.
So, why does our society give a crap about sales this weekend?! I guess it's retail therapy; you may not get your slice of the pie but on Black Friday at least you can have a sweet. Pessimism aside, consumerism really does make me think negatively about American society, and my role as someone who very often buys into it.
And that brings me to this Patagonia film. Watching it tonight reminded me that so many other people realize the shallowness of much of our society, and they aren't buying into it. In the midst of Black Friday and the run-up to Christmas it helps to be reminded of that. The half-hour it took to watch was time well spent, and I'm sure anyone who watches it will get something out of it, even if it's not the same thing. Enjoy.
Ironically, one of my most vivid memories from India is walking into a Mumbai Starbucks on December 16th and hearing Christmas carols. I was transported to the West: suddenly realizing it was Christmas time. I had been so focused on the experiences of India and immediateness of friendships and life there that I hadn't thought about the biggest celebration of the year. I sat down with my latte beaming, looking forward to flying to London the next day and spending Christmas with family and friends.
Of course, you can't forget about Christmas in the States. Commercials started weeks ago, and stores were putting displays up as soon as Halloween ended (mind you it's not much better in the UK). Now that Black Friday has passed the season is in full swing, and with it the whoring of what was once a pagan celebration into an excuse for gluttony and greed, decidedly un-Christian values.
Sitting in that Starbucks, the first in India, I missed the Christmas season. Now, living it again, I'm not so sure. It's not that I'm not looking forward to the day; after a too-brief visit to Houston this weekend I'm excited to spend quality time with my loving family. It's just that the defining parts of our lives are experiences, relationships, and the stories that those combine to create, not the gifts we receive or the luxury we buy. In a country where despite being the richest in the world we only just managed to get everyone healthcare (and even now its patchy); where since the Great Recession the top 1% have captured 95% of income gains despite only having less than half of the losses during the fall; where we are needlessly squandering the potentials of millions because of an inadequate education system and ridiculous tuition fees, we are failing to give everyone the opportunity to live these defining moments and enjoy those special relationships.
So, why does our society give a crap about sales this weekend?! I guess it's retail therapy; you may not get your slice of the pie but on Black Friday at least you can have a sweet. Pessimism aside, consumerism really does make me think negatively about American society, and my role as someone who very often buys into it.
And that brings me to this Patagonia film. Watching it tonight reminded me that so many other people realize the shallowness of much of our society, and they aren't buying into it. In the midst of Black Friday and the run-up to Christmas it helps to be reminded of that. The half-hour it took to watch was time well spent, and I'm sure anyone who watches it will get something out of it, even if it's not the same thing. Enjoy.
Aside from being occasionally sickened by some aspects of our society, I'm really enjoying being in Berkeley. The change of pace from last year is a good thing, and I'm looking forwards to focusing more on what I'm interesting in after I finish my general education requirements this year. It's awesome to be in a place producing research like this paper, which was written by a Berkeley professor of economics, Emmanuel Saez, and is the source of that statistics I quoted above. It's worth a look even for non-economists, and the fact that I have the opportunity to interact with people who are doing research like that makes me excited to be here. The one thing that would make Berkeley better would be my injured finger healing, but it's good to focus on other things too.
I'll continue to post here very infrequently, and only when I have something worth writing about.
P.S. I originally posted this after Black Friday 2013 but ended up taking it down after a day. I reread it today (Feb. 27th, 2014) and after an edit decided to repost it.
I'll continue to post here very infrequently, and only when I have something worth writing about.
P.S. I originally posted this after Black Friday 2013 but ended up taking it down after a day. I reread it today (Feb. 27th, 2014) and after an edit decided to repost it.
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