Projects

As the temperatures continue to (slowly) drop here, some of the harder climbs are becoming more and possible.  Until it's cool the heat and humidity mean climbing at one's limit is very difficult; your hands sweat too much and the friction with the rock isn't nearly as good.  That's why we wake up before six and try climbs like the one below before the sun has risen and while the moon is still in the sky.  The climber in the shot is a Canadian from Vancouver called Nathan, and the climb is called Goan Corner.  It's named after the guesthouse all the climbers stay at, and for Hampi it's famous.  It's one of the climbs people come here to try.

Later the same day I worked my project, a V9 or harder on an overhang.  The first move is a huge left hand throw from two small holds to one of biggest and most incut grips in Hampi.  After rocking up on the super high feet you push backwards and grab the jug just as your feet come off the wall.  Your body swings back as your feet cut and you hang from one arm as you regain control and continue climbing.  It took me two solid sessions to get that move alone but now I've climbed from the start to a rail at the beginning of the difficult technical face you finish with.  Hopefully I'll finish the whole climb before I go not just because of it's difficulty but also because of it's uniqueness; very rarely in Hampi do you have overhangs and dynamic movement like this.

I've got another project called Surf Traverse which follows a line of okay crimps (ledges) diagonally up another overhanging face.  I've been working it with a Slovakian called Jaru and after our third session on it yesterday I think we finally have worked out the most efficient way to climb it.  If I climb it it will be my hardest boulder ever so I'm psyched to try it again after some rest.  The crux is at the end so you need to be fresh to do it. Hopefully next post I'll have some photos of me finishing it!